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When assembling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, situated high among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has made the family totally astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” states a owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble shop earning such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.